The watch world is a fascinating arena, brimming with innovation, tradition, and a healthy dose of debate. This week, we delve into a few intriguing topics that are sure to spark conversations and reflections. From the intersection of art and horology to the evolving concept of 'microbrands', and the allure of vintage watches, there's a lot to unpack. So, let's dive in and explore these captivating aspects of the watch industry.
MB&F's M.A.D.Gallery: Where Art Meets Horology
MB&F's M.A.D.Gallery has always been a beacon for those who appreciate the marriage of art and horology. Since its inception in Geneva, it has championed the eccentric and the innovative, providing a platform for mechanical creators to showcase their talents beyond the traditional gallery setting. The latest addition to this unique space is the Solar Orbiter, a mesmerizing kinetic watch winder by British artist Martin Smith. Standing at 60cm tall, this masterpiece is a testament to the fusion of sculpture and horological accessory. With over 300 handcrafted components, it quietly rotates a watch while incorporating playful references to Smith's earlier works, such as interchangeable hearts, hands, and stars. Just 10 numbered examples will be produced, each supplied in a bespoke wooden crate, a refreshing reminder that not every horological talking point needs to be a new watch.
Shinola's Brand Campaign: A New Story
American brand Shinola has spent the past decade telling stories about Detroit, craftsmanship, and its flagship Runwell watch. However, surprisingly, it has never launched a dedicated brand campaign. That changes with 'Set the Pace', the company's first-ever campaign, fronted by Succession star Nicholas Braun, who also directs the short film 'The Restaurant'. This cinematic piece transforms an ordinary dinner into a race against time, showcasing the relentless ticking of the Runwell. Rather than focusing on specifications or heritage, 'Set the Pace' explores our complicated relationship with time itself, marking an interesting shift for a company that has relied on the strength of its products and Detroit identity.
The First Rolex Daytona Rainbow: A Collector's Dream
Rainbow Daytonas are no strangers to the auction block, but this one is different. First State Auctions in Australia has become the first auction house anywhere in the world to offer Rolex's latest off-catalogue Cosmograph Daytona Rainbow, reference 126598RBOW. With a retail price of US$324,700 and availability measured by relationships rather than waiting lists, the secondary market is already making its mark. At the time of writing, bidding has reached A$395,000, with just a few days remaining before the hammer falls on Sunday. The result will provide the first real indication of how collectors value Rolex's latest Rainbow Daytona in the open market, a sale that many collectors will be watching with interest.
The Microbrand Debate: A Term in Flux
The term 'microbrand' has become as divisive as it is overused. Not so long ago, it felt like a badge of honor, representing small teams taking creative risks without the baggage of decades of heritage or sprawling corporate structures. Brands like Studio Underd0g, Baltic, and Christopher Ward have all embraced the idea of being small, independent, and community-driven. However, the market has changed, and the term now implies something fresh and exciting. With hundreds, if not thousands, of small watch companies competing for attention, the word has become associated with both genuinely thoughtful independents and those assembling catalogue parts with little to distinguish themselves beyond a logo and a colorful dial. This leaves many successful smaller brands in an awkward position, as they now have international retailers, dedicated design teams, proprietary components, and increasingly sophisticated manufacturing, yet they're still grouped under the same umbrella as a Kickstarter project that launched a few months ago. Perhaps 'small independent' or 'indie' has become the more useful description, recognizing that independence is often the defining characteristic, not the size of the company.
Wrist Shot of the Week: A Tonda Minute Rattrapante
Corey, known as @enthuseddad, caught my attention with these shots of his gorgeous Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Minute Rattrapante. He's lustfully sporting it on a grey rubber strap, paired with a dial that somehow manages to make grey look sensational. It's a carousel of beautiful shots, showcasing the watch's elegance and versatility.
Time+Tide Shop Pick of the Week: Wren Diver One Obsidian
Wren's second collaboration with Ben's Watches builds on the success of last year's Diver One Magma. The Diver One Obsidian wraps its molten orange fumé dial in a stealthy black DLC-coated case and bracelet, giving the familiar Diver One platform an entirely different personality without altering its proven formula. Measuring 41mm with 200 meters of water resistance and powered by the dependable Sellita SW200 automatic movement, it remains an enthusiast-focused everyday dive watch. Limited to an initial run of just 100 numbered pieces and supplied with both a matching DLC bracelet and an orange FKM rubber strap, the Diver One Obsidian is another confident evolution of a distinctive entry in the independent dive watch scene. It's exclusive to the USA, and there are only a few left, but you can order it online at the Time+Tide Shop. Price: US$1,195
Our Favorite Time+Tide Coverage of the Week
Which Omega Speedmaster Should I Buy?: The White Dial Moonwatch
The white-dial Omega Speedmaster Professional has quickly become one of the year's most talked-about releases. Andrew and Justin take an honest look at the watch, exploring its design, history, wearability, and why it might just be the Speedmaster to win over a new generation of collectors.
Where the First Automatic Wristwatch Was Really Made
Everyone knows the automatic watch, but remarkably few know the story behind its invention. Russell travels to the Fortis manufacture in Grenchen to uncover the remarkable origins of the world's first serially produced automatic wristwatch and why history hasn't given John Harwood the recognition he deserves.
Vacheron Constantin Innovations: From Twin Beat to Overseas Ultra-Thin
What does innovation look like when you've been making watches continuously for 271 years? Andrew, Justin, and Vacheron Constantin's Christian Selmoni explore five extraordinary timepieces from the brand's archives, revealing how two centuries of technical breakthroughs continue to shape one of watchmaking's oldest manufactures today.
