In a world where fashion trends often feel fleeting, Shanghai Fashion Week 2026 boldly declares: comfort and romance are here to stay. But here's where it gets controversial—while some see this as a retreat to the familiar, others argue it’s a revolutionary embrace of cultural identity and emotional connection in fashion. Let’s dive into why this season’s focus on nostalgia, creativity, and wearability might just be the antidote to an uncertain economic climate—and why it’s sparking debates among industry insiders.
Despite a condensed runway schedule, Shanghai Fashion Week’s spring 2026 season proved to be a magnet for top buyers from Mainland China, Asia, and beyond. This year, the spotlight shone brightly on the New Chinese Style, a trend that blends nostalgia and romance with a modern twist. Younger brands like Ao Yes stole the show by reimagining traditional Chinese patterns and embroideries in ways that felt both playful and contemporary. But is this fusion of old and new a passing fad, or the future of fashion?
Eléonore Daquet, brand manager at Dover Street Market Paris, raved about Ao Yes’s ability to modernize tradition: “Their interpretation of Chinese patterns is so fresh and fun—it’s a breath of fresh air.” Meanwhile, Ramu Kim, buyer at Nubian Tokyo, praised the brand’s “clean lines and structured silhouettes” for their elegance and cultural grounding. And this is the part most people miss— these designs aren’t just aesthetically pleasing; they’re a statement about preserving heritage in a rapidly changing world.
In a time of economic uncertainty, Chinese consumers are gravitating toward comfort and texture—a trend that’s reshaping the market. Sonja Long, founder of Alter Showroom, noted the rise of “soothing knits in Giorgio Morandi colors and relaxed linen suits” as new favorites. Ding Meimei, founder of DFO Showroom, added, “Relaxed, playful, and lifestyle styles are outperforming traditional or exaggerated designs.” But here’s the question: Is this shift toward comfort a temporary reaction to hard times, or a permanent change in consumer priorities?
Lv Xiaolei, Shanghai Fashion Week’s executive vice chairman, sees this as a testament to the industry’s resilience: “Even in challenging times, brands are approaching things with a proactive, open mindset, finding new opportunities for growth.” This season, the Shanghai Fashion Designers Association (SFDA) launched the New Wave Fashion Awards, aiming to nurture the next generation of Chinese creative directors. But will this initiative be enough to sustain innovation in a competitive global market?
While some, like Eric Young, founder of LMDS, found the week “generally lackluster,” he acknowledged the strength of brands that delivered compelling results. “Retail spending is picking up,” he observed, “and I’m urging everyone to consume good design—that’s when things will truly improve.” But here’s a counterpoint: Is the focus on “good design” enough, or does the industry need bolder, more disruptive ideas to thrive?
Highlights from the Buyers:
Eléonore Daquet adored Ao Yes’s little black dress, calling it “chic and easy,” and praised Shanghai Fashion Week’s centralized format for its convenience. Her impression? “An amazing week filled with passionate people moving mountains for Chinese fashion.”
Ramu Kim was captivated by Shushu/Tong’s cinematic runway, which blended innocence and maturity. “Their floral patterns and lace details capture both softness and strength,” she noted, highlighting the brand’s evolving take on femininity.
Eric Young spotlighted Xu Zhi’s 10th-anniversary collection for its “warm and profound beauty” and Ratio et Motus’s foldable baguette handbag as a must-have. He also discovered Ayang, a new brand with a relaxed, Italian-inspired vibe.
Cherie Wen, founder of So What, Chengdu, found the apparel market uninspiring but noted that Chinese designers still attract clients due to their alignment with local tastes. Claudia De Beer, footwear buyer at Level Shoes, UAE, loved Mark Gong’s cowboy boots and Pantterfly’s bold, feminine designs.
Tran Thi Hoai Anh, founder of Runway, Vietnam, praised Her Senses lingerie for its craftsmanship and highlighted Assignments and TuoseLab as new talents to watch. Pavanaree Tohsaeng of Club 21, Thailand, appreciated Hanchi Studios, Minnahui, and Poum for their innovative use of fabrics and colors.
So, what do you think? Is the focus on comfort and romance a step forward or a step back for fashion? Are Chinese designers doing enough to innovate, or is the industry playing it too safe? Let us know in the comments—we’d love to hear your take on this evolving landscape!
